HomeArticlesIndore STREET Food Tour – BEST Rasgulla in India + BAKED Samosa + LAL BALTI Kachori + Usal Poha 1/2
Indore STREET Food Tour – BEST Rasgulla in India + BAKED Samosa + LAL BALTI Kachori + Usal Poha 1/2
August 23, 2019
-In the search of taste we have come to Indore. Indore is a commercial city of Madhya Pradesh. It is the cleanest city of India and is also the city of foodies. We will start our food journey with a traditional breakfast, Usal Poha. -Give it sir. This is Head Sahab’s famous Usal Poha. which they had introduced in Indore. Its normal Poha topped with Chole fried paneer slices, nylon sev, Ratlami sev and boondi. and a spoonful of curd on top. This is it. Right. There is an interesting story behind this shop. His father was a head constable in Indore Police. And he started this shop after leaving the job. -He took compulsory retirement.
-Retirement for this work. -He enjoyed this thing more. -He was so fond of feeding people that he decided to do something where he can feed the masses. So he left the job of police and started this. -Tell us your father’s name. -Purushottam Pariwal. -And what’s your name?
-Pankaj Pariwal. -Come lets taste the Indori famous Usal Poha. -Fried Paneer then curd on top, Ratlami sev, nylon sev and at the base there is Poha. -On adding curd, the spiciness mellows down. -This Usal is super spicy. -Have you eaten Usal Poha before? -Yes I have eaten.
-where? -I have eaten it at Rao. -Do you get the same thing there?
-Yes. -But the quality here is better. -We ate here for the first time and we liked it. -The Poha is tasty and soft. Its nice and fluffy as well. on the top there is chole. Its super spicy. For crunchiness there is sev-nylon and Ratlami sev both. And on the top there is spice mix. -In a way its a morning ritual here in Madhya Pradesh. to have poha in the morning along with jalebi. -This one is little unique. It has chole and masale in it. And its quite spicy as well. -We are at Rasgulla House and its a 45 years old establishment. Here they make rasgulle, gulab jamun and rasmalai. We spoke to granny And she told us that in this there is just cottage cheese that too made from cow’s milk that they curdle on their own. -Then they give it a round shape and boil it in sugar syrup. -Okay we need to apply strength to roll it. -Making this is an art. -You have been doing this for so long. -These are ready and are getting cooled. -Yes they are being cooled or else if we pack it hot then they will get spoiled due to the steam. -Is this ready now? -Not now.
-10 mins more. -Its now boiling in sugar syrup. -Then we will add it to chilled water. -And its ready. -Wow how soft! I haven’t tasted any softer Rasgulle than this. And it has pure cottage cheese. -Its being made right in front of you. -Yes very nice. -It is not overly sweet. -And so soft… -Ours is quite nice. -It has no match -I have eaten Rasgulles at many places like Pahala in Odisha and many other places. But I haven’t eaten such soft Rasgulles. -By sitting here only I instruct them how to curdle the milk and all… -How do you curdle the milk? -We use the leftover water from the previous cheese. -We use this water on alternate days… like today’s one tomorrow and tomorrow’s the day after… -It must be sour then. -First you curdle the milk then get the cottage cheese from -After that they mash it. -Yes then they roll it and put it in the sugar syrup And when its done we put it in the thin sugar syrup. That’s it. -I haven’t eaten any better rasgulles than these in my life. So soft and especially the fact that they are made by granny makes is special. -If ever our kids have typhoid or jaundice… our family is a large one…we feed this to all. -We take advice from the doctors and patients also come here… -To eat the Rasgulles.
-Yes. -Doctors advice the patients to eat this. -Yes they advice our name. -They suggest the name of our shop. -It feels good that we are selling good stuff. We earn a little less but we are satisfied. -Will this go inside the mouth? -Ohh. Its put like this. Just a minute let me show you. -I will eat along with you. -I haven’t eaten such a huge pani puri in my life. -How to have it? -You were right. Its seems like a swimming pool. -It shouldn’t break. -If it breaks then the fun end. -See how crispy it is? Its crisp even in rains. -You are right. -Golgappa should be such that the water fills your whole mouth. -This is the Dahi puri. -It has nylon sev, curd, potato masala and chutney.
-Sweet chutney. -I think your golgappe are the largest is the country. -In Kolkata too there are big gogappes. -Not this big I guess. At places there are the elongated ones. -Yours is… -The semolina Golgappes in UP like the ones in Agra, Delhi etc. -You make it with whole wheat. -Its wheat and semolina. -Such huge golgappe, pani puri, batashe, gup chup whatever you name these… I haven’t eaten them anywhere else in the country. -And eating it is an art. -You take it like this and press it into your mouth using your fore finger. -Sharma Ji’s tasty Bhutte ke Ladoo. -Sir give me one corn laddo please. I haven’t eaten it in my life. And for the first time I am hearing this name. -Sharma Ji tell us how long have you been making these Ladoos and what are they made of. -First we grate the corn then grind it. Then we cook it on low flame until it gets grainy. then we pass the hot mixture through a sieve then we toast it nicely and add sugar, milk solids, Bhoora and ghee and then we roll it. -How much is one Ladoo for? -Its Rs. 20 per piece or Rs. 400 a kilo. -How long have you been selling the laadoos here? -I have been making it since 1975. -Since 1975 you are making ladoos only. -No its Ladoos, gajak and kulfi. These are our three businesses. -Its slightly tastes like gram flour ladoos. -The cornmeal has a raw taste and so it is toasted properly. -It has to be toasted well. Hence the original taste of the corn doesn’t come through. -Yes it seems that I am having gram flour ladoos. The taste is very similar to it. -This is a seasonal sweet in Indore. -In cloth market there is Sharmaji’s shop. The shop has been here from 1975. And for four month he sells Ladoos, next four months gajak and the last four months he sells kulfi. he told us about the process of the making of the ladoos. The texture of these ladoos resembles that of the gramflour ladoos. Its mildly sweet and there is a very nice flavour of cardamom and saffron. Very nice. -How many years has this shop been here?
-70 years. -Was your family interested in music? -My father was very interested in music. -I really liked the fact that right on entering we got to hear the music. -Yes it is attached to memories. -I remember that 15-20 years back, when the cassettes were in fashion then I had a full collection. -There was a full catalogue where the cassettes were properly numbered. -Its charm is now over. -These cassettes are with me since 1987 and I have maintained them properly. -Who is your favourite singer? -Mine. See I can’t compare them at all. -He is my eyes, he is my nose, he is my breath and she is my feeling; Lata didi. -I can’t live without them. Never does a day goes by without listening to them. -These are all the biscuits. -These are the wheat ones that I had told you about. -Since we don’t add anything else, you get a natural taste in them. -Our toast too is like that. -Your toast is quite thin.
-Yes. -I told you that its all due to the blessings of the elders. -You wont get these in the whole of MP. _what are those called?
-Puffs. -Khari or we also call them as fans. -And these are the samose. -You call them baked samosa and not patty. -Yes. -Less people call it as pattice. It is popular by the name samosa. It has the shape of the pattice but the masala is different. -What is the difference between the two masalas. -Patties has mixed vegetables in it. But here they have potato masala. -And we also make kachoris and it has lentil based stuffing. -Those are baked too?
-Yes. -This is the baked samosa. -It is quite fluffy. And it had numerous layers in it. -Wow! -Very tasty. -I have never tasted such baked samosas anywhere else. -Its totally crisp and flaky. -What is your favourite song? -It is a song by Kishore Da. Its ‘Ruk Jana Nahin Tu Kahin Haar Ke’ from the movie ‘Imtehan’. -Shall I sing a few lines? -Please sing. ‘song’ -Actually I heal myself through music. Whatever problem I face or by chance if I am upset, then I heal myself through music. -You can call it music therapy. -I too have heard this song a lot many times. It is a motivational song that boosts your confidence. -If you ever feel low, then do listen to this song-‘Ruk Jana Nahin Tu Kahin Haar Ke’. -On listening to it it you feel feel motivated to move ahead. -It results in positive thinking and it gives fresh energy to go ahead. -Yes it builds up your confidence. -What things do you add? Milk and… -It has milk and sugar and margarine. -All purpose flour. -Yes a mix of all purpose flour and semolina. -It seems that it will be fun to dunk it in tea or milk and then have it. -Isn’t it? -Yes it tastes great with tea and milk but in itself too it tastes great as well. -Yes just like this too its tasty. -So this photo is always there in your pocket.
-Yes always. 24 hours. ‘loud laughter’ -The kid there at the front got scared. -Hey Damru bye! -I distribute stuffs among them. That’s one of my task. -I just give a call and the poor kids assemble here and then I distribute ice cream and stuffs among them. -He too does the same. Like feeding the cows. -The more you share, the more you receive. -Yes brother I have always done the same. -It is said that your hand should be like this and not like this. -Come lets give you the taste of Gujrati Fafda and Kadhi. -Tell me where are you from? -We are from Rajasthan. -But this fafda is a Gujrati dish. -Yes its a Gujrati dish. When we came to Indore…we Rajasthanis here in Indore are known for being foodies. -So we tried to do something different. -Yes Indore is known as the foodies’ city. -What is the way to eat this? Do we dip it in the Kadhi and eat. -Yes -Like this. -Hmm! The Kadhi is sweet. -Yes because its a Gujarati dish…most of the Gujrati dishes have a sweet taste. -Do you add sugar in it?
-Yes. little sugar. -The green chilies gives the taste a twist. -Yes with chilies it tastes good. -The Fafda is made being made right here in the front. -Yes are made all through the day. They are made from 10 am to 8 pm. What things do you add in this? Gram four. -It has a tempering of fennel, coriander and carom seed. -Then we add a little bit asafoetida to it. All of these goes into the curd and gramflour mix that has been sweetened with a little sugar. -Do you add baking soda? -Yes we add it in the Fafda but not the kadhi. -Very nice. -Does the shop remains open till the evening? -Yes it opens at 7 am and till 10 pm, the fafda is made continuously. -So people have it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. That’s interesting. -The Kadhi is a little sweet as the Gujratis love sweetness in their dishes. -The Fafda too has a little sugar. -Yes but its very little. -See it too has carom seeds and all. -Yes carom seeds and other masalas. -Namaskar brother. -What is this that you are making? Almond thandai. -Now you are adding… -This is saffron. -What are you making? -Om. This is the devotional offering. -This is the cashew shake made along with the fruit pulp. Mango pulp. -You prepared it in the same way as the bhang but it doesn’t have bhang. -One thing I really like is that on entering your shop its written ‘keep straining’. That means ‘keep straining’ and drinking. -How potent is this bhang? -How much do you add? -It varies from half a ball to 50 balls of bhang. -People consume 50 balls in one go. Are they able to get up on their feet after that?
-Yes. -Here we have the cashew shake and there is no bhang in it. -Sir I have had Thandai at many places, Varanasi, Lucknow etc. but I haven’t tasted anything as tasty as yours. Absolutely amazing. -There is saffron, cardamom, curd, rabri and cashew… the taste of all of these are coming through. -The best thing about your shop is the purity. You are making it right in front of us with so much cleanliness and people are loving it. -And I also liked the Om that you made on the top.
-Its saffron. -What is this?
-It is sweets. -How is it made?
-its made of dry fruits. -Dry fruits and… Cashews, Pista, Dates and bhang. -How potent is it? -Each ladoos has the same effect as one bhang ball. -These are the bhang balls. -What is this? -Its Bhang Gulkand. -It is added to betel nut quid and eaten. I stay away from bhang as it doesn’t suits me. I am good with the Plain Thandai. Come let me tell you the unique tale of the red bucket. -Give us one Kachori. -This is Lal Balti Anand Upkar Griha’s potato kachoris. -Along with it there is coriander and green chilies chutney. -The original name of this shop is Anand Upkar Griha. -It had started in 1969. -Earlier there used to be a cycle shop here. But then they started selling kachoris. The shop became famous due to this red bucket. This red Bucket that is hung here has a bulb fixed inside. -So if the light bulb is on, kachoris are available and vice versa. -The shop opens at 5 pm and is open till 9 pm. Its totally crisp. -The stuffing inside it has potatoes, coriander seeds, red chili powder and some spices. The chilies are very strong. It seems that this chutney has less coriander and more green chilies. But the flavour of the green chilies is very nice. -And its spicy too. -I think that the consumption of Kachoris in Madhya pradesh is way too higher than Rajasthan. -And the varieties of kachoris that are available here is not found anywhere else in the country. -Be it corn Kachoris, Lentil stuffed kachoris or green grams kachoris. -Very tasty, crispy and super spicy. -Give us a hot dog. -You stuff it inside a bun. -Fried bun chole or you can call it bun tikki. -Its bun tikki chole. Right. -Here there is sev in everything. -Nobody eats without the sev. -With roti too, people have sev. -People said that here in the thali too there must be sev. -You said a very interesting thing that go to the court later, first have the hot dog. -The dates in the court can be had later. -Lets taste the paneer hot dog. -Wow! -I don’t know why its called the hot dog but it is very tasty. -The bun is crisp from both the sides. -Together with it there is sweet and sour chutney, paneer slice, sev fro crunchiness and chopped onions. -The street food has its own charm. It has a different twist. -The hot dog has a round shaped bun served with chole and tikki inside. -And the taste is quite nice. -So here in Indore you find this largest Kadhai(pan like utensil) in the whole country. -How much milk can it hold? -It can accommodate 110 litres of milk. -Daily you sell the same quantity or you keep adding to it. -During summers the quantity is less but in winter it goes up to 150 to 200 liters. -How old is your shop? -Its 60 years old. -My father started this, then I looked after it and now my kids too are taking care of the shop. -Do you have this milk business from the beginning itself. -What all things do you add to this milk. -There is sugar, saffron, pista, cardamom, nutmeg and mace. -During winters we add dates and poppy seeds into this. -We add it only in winters and not in summers. -We start adding the dates after Diwali and continue it till Holi. -Do people consume this milk during the night or evening or all through the day.? -No not for the whole day. Only in the evening. -The kadhai goes up in the evening. -It starts at 5.30 to 6 pm in the evening and goes on till 10 pm. -And you serve it with thick cream on top. -We add the spices into the milk and the the pista and other dry fruits for decoration. -The milk is served with the Malai. -Here you have the saffron milk but what is rabri doodh? -In it goes the milk and rabri that is mixed together to make rabri doodh. -Give us one Rabri milk.
-Sure. -With us we have Prakhar who runs a catering business in Indore. -How long have you been coming here for this milk? -It has been ten years since I am coming here. -Here the milk boils for three to four hours after which you get a layer of malai on the top. -And they are bringing it to the sides. In the middle they are mixing the milk and on the sides the Malai layer is being formed. -And their kadhao is the largest in the whole of MP. -I think it is the largest in the whole country. -I am told that it can accommodate 110 litres of milk. -And you have the option to add milk cake, rabri and peda to it. -We can add peda and milk cake to it. -We are having the Rabri milk in which first goes a ladle of rabri, then the saffron milk and then a layer of cream. -Come lets taste it. -Such a thick milk it is. The milk has been boiled for a long time. -The addition of rabri is giving it a nice sweetness and you can feel the cream in the rabri. -Is it buffalo milk only? Or you mix cows milk too? -It is mixed. -Very nice. We thoroughly enjoyed it. Amazing.